Tag: France

Ibiza Sunrise
My Top 10 Best Backpacking Moments

My Top 10 Best Backpacking Moments

By | | Comments 0 Comment

Travel blogs are informative and instructive, but they also make you wander-hungry. And sometimes regular hungry, especially if you’re into food like I am. So this week I thought I’d post the top ten most amazing moments I had backpacking with my husband for ten weeks last summer.

10. Seeing the Scottish castle rising over the hill that we would be living in for free (article to come soon) for the next few weeks and realizing it was all real. Running up the stairs when we got there like little kids at Disneyworld.

9. Realizing I had just saved several hundred dollars on our Irish car rental. Yes! Having the cashier give me a congratulatory smile and nod, like I had figured out the correct answer to a fairytale riddle.

8. Wandering the market in Valencia, picking from different cheeses and sausage for lunch. Marveling over shellfish and seafood I couldn’t even identify. Grabbing a huge fresh squeezed Valencia orange juice, a giant horxata, and paprika-soaked meats for less than ten euro.

7. Sharing a bottle of cider with our Airbnb host, an ex-pat luxury fashion editor, in Milan. Oh, the stories!

6. Sitting outside my favorite cafe on Rue Mouffetard in Paris with a cappuccino, an apricot mini-tarte, and my journal, sketching.

5. Eating some of the best italian food of my life in El Brellin in Milan. Yes, I am a little food obsessed. Totally okay with that. Food to me is part of the magical, temporary nature of our lives.

4. Having a martini in the Monte Carlo in Monaco. Eat your heart out 007.

3. Going to my favorite London neighborhood (Camden Town) after ten years and seeing my husband also fall in love with it at first sight

2. Seeing the sunrise over the Mediterranean the first time after an all-nighter in Ibiza

And my most amazing moment backpacking Europe was….

  1. Sitting in a beautiful touring drummer’s apartment in Avignon, smoking a cigarette over breakfast(sorry, mom!) talking fluently in French about life with a traveling German girl of my own age.

This was the first time I felt like I was a part of Europe instead of just a visitor there. When you travel, it’s easy to just skim the surface- hanging out with one-day hostel friends, going to the major tourist areas, and not interacting in any meaningful way with locals. Sometimes having “an authentic experience” just means listening and opening up to a shop owner or tour guide. Sometimes it means staying in an Airbnb and making friends with your host, sacrificing exploring time for banter over a glass of wine. Sometimes it just means loafing around the kitchen.

More than just the moments above, I remember the people we met on the road and their stories. I remember how Alan almost bought an elephant. I remember “Ulysses” the angry Australian teaching us how to be homeless. I remember running into a couple from Amsterdam two cities later and hearing about their time as personal chefs in Cambodia. I remember our host explaining why her apartment might be bugged by the KGB.

And now, because we’ve kept in touch with some of our friends a year later, we get to hear what it’s like to build guitars in Prague, to teach English in Morocco, to pitch a bid in Dubai. Hearing their stories keeps my feet ready for the road (and gives me a place to stay in many foreign cities!) In many ways, the people we met were the most valuable backpacking moment of all.

What’s crazy is that for two people doing almost three months of traveling in some of the most expensive places on the planet, still enjoying nice dinners, museums, and stuff only cost around $6k American. I know it feels that way sometimes, but these kinds of experiences are attainable. I know people who spend several thousand dollars just to go to Disney World. If that’s your thing, cool, but if you want to spend a fun few hours, browse fares on my current favorite travel app, Momondo, and see how you can get almost anywhere on the planet for $300.

A beautiful Carcassonne morning
The 10 things I wish I knew before I backpacked Europe

The 10 things I wish I knew before I backpacked Europe

By | | Comments 1 comment

To say I was unprepared before I went off to Europe for three months was an understatement. It’s not that I didn’t read up. I knew some things- I knew to pack earplugs for the hostels. I knew to use a credit card that waived international fees and have more than one card on hand in case one was lost or frauded. I knew how to spot a good restaurant. These are very important things! If you don’t know these already or are just starting out, I recommend the book How to Travel the World on $50 a Day.

However, there were some really stupid mistakes I made that I would like to save you from. They were stressful, in some cases, embarrassing.

10. Hostel booking is per person.
Okay, this is the most embarrassing one right at the top. Before Europe, I had never actually stayed in a hostel. Never. Weird, right? But imagine my embarrassment when I had only booked one bed (hey, I’m with my husband, it’s a co-ed room, we only need one right?) and then on arriving in Dublin, found out it was per person. And there were no more beds left. Oh boy, good start, right? What an idiot.

9. Balance flexibility and structure.
When we got to Europe, I was SO excited about the complete freedom we had. We had nothing to come home for in the immediate future. We had no idea where we’d end up. We planned on taking the cheapest flights and buses until we were getting short on cash, knowing we could use the points I had saved up to fly home. This was FREEDOM. I would only book one night at a time at hostels and Airbnb so we could follow WHIM and WHIMSY on our spiritual quest! (and also bail if the room turned out to be a dud.)

Yeah, here’s the thing- if you wake up at 9 and need to be checked out of your hostel by 10 and you have a 30lb backpack and no idea where you’re headed next, it’s a bummer. And a little scary. What if there is no place available? What if it’s hella expensive? Even if you’re keeping yourself free, make sure you’re booked around busy times like festivals, holidays, and weekends so you don’t get stuck. It’s totally ok, especially if you decide you like a certain hostel or Airbnb, to just book the next few days in advance. You’re going to have plenty of adventure in your life already, right? It’s okay to add structure in there.

8. Be realistic about how far you can walk, especially if you are unclear about how wide-spread public transport is.
Okay, so this one time we found a great place to stay in Galway (again, still in Ireland, can you tell it’s where we went first? Get all those mistakes out early!) It seemed a little far out of the way, but foreign countries are not always super google accurate. Ireland, for example, is not really into street numbers. After we had walked for several hours exploring the town, we set off to our Airbnb… only to discover it was eight miles away. About five in (as it was getting dark) we had to call our hosts and beg casually for a pick-up. Embarrassing. And although the walk back to town the next day was beautiful and full of thatched-roof cottages, it was also hard on our newbie backpacker backs.

7. You do not need to bring that extra pair of shoes. You do not. Do. Not!
Yeah, but I can just ship anything I don’t need back to myself right? That’s what I thought until I sent my first package back in Spain and found it cost $70! Ah! Do you know how many pintxos I could have eaten for that kind of money?? 70! 70 delicious pintxos!

The truth is, you can buy almost anything on the road you’re really in dire need of. Backpacking long periods is also money-saving in that it discourages you from buying needless souvenirs. If the question is “do I like that thing enough to carry it on my back for the next ten weeks?” the answer is usually no. Cha-ching, cha-ching! More money for pintxos!

6. Know your data options.
Do you have a cheap international data plan available with your carrier?Is your phone jailbroken so you can use foreign sim cards when traveling? My husband’s phone was paid off so he got a local sim card. Mine still had a little money owed so it was useless unless I wanted to pay $30 for every 500mB (which goes very quickly, let me tell you.) This meant half the battery life when we were out. Speaking of power, always carry a few charging bricks with you so you don’t get stuck in a strange place without a phone. While we’re talking about your digital life abroad, have you thought about how you’re going to back up photographs and information while you’re on the road? It doesn’t matter what your plan is as long as you have one. You’ll be really sad if you lose all those beautiful snapshots of how much fun you’re having because something happens to your phone and nothing was backed up.

5. Read the fine print with budget airlines.
Caveat Emptor- Buyer beware! There are lots of amazing deals out there. In Europe, it’s possible to grab a plane from Copenhagen to London for $14 and then London to Ibiza for $30. Fantastic! But if you’re not careful, you’ll lose your savings and more through not reading requirements on budget airlines.

Learn which airlines are more associated with “budget” fares- these are ones to be extra wary of. Ryanair and Spirit, for example, are notorious for surprise charges. Their carry-on required sizes are extra small, for example, and you may have to rely on the kindness or negligence of your particular stewards to let you slip through without extra fee. Their online check-in times close super early. They charge extra if you don’t pre-print your boarding pass before arrival.

We scored a $30 flight from Dublin to London, but with all the mistakes my husband and I made not reading the fine print in advance, we realized on arrival to the airport we might be charged a full $300 in fees! Yikes! We decided last minute to let our flight go without us and buy new $60 tickets to Liverpool instead. All the scheduling chaos could have been avoided if we had been more mindful of the rules when we booked our original tickets.

4. Take extra care of traffic. Even a cyclist can DESTROY you.
Nice is a busy pedestrian city. There are scooters, cycles, cars, trucks, and buses all over the place and the margins between street and sidewalk are not as clear as, say, New York. Plus, as you explore a new place it’s easy to get distracted by all the exciting things around you. In my case, I walked too closely in front of a stopped bus (the light was red) and was totally owned by a cyclist who had not begun to slow down. He went flying, I went flying, and I literally couldn’t tell you how I ended up with so much road rash because I don’t remember anything between Brian screaming and me looking down after getting up and actually seeing how much damage I took. Wow, those stress hormones, huh? I didn’t feel a thing. Hadn’t even realized that I was covered in blood when I said how okay I was. I was very lucky it was just a cyclist. Don’t make that dangerous mistake- stay very aware of your surroundings, especially in busy areas.

3. Protect your gear!
When the lens fell out of my UV filter and shattered on the pavement as I was swapping filters, I debated replacing it. Imported items were extra expensive in otherwise-cheap Spain. Why bother replacing a filter that doesn’t really do anything anyway? Because this $30 filter protects my $100 lens when the lens cap is off. I replaced it. That meant that when I tripped spectacularly in Carcassonne while taking a picture and landed camera-first on the pavement, it was only my filter that was bent and scratched not my lens. I was able to remove it temporarily and keep taking pictures another day. The beautiful featured photo on this post? It would never have been taken if I hadn’t bought that UV cover. Good job, past me.

2. It’s totally okay to have rest days.
If you had told me that while I was in the South of France, I was going to spend a whole day sitting on the couch watching Netflix, I would have been super mad at myself. What a waste! How could I not be out exploring the amazing place I was in?

If you’re a go-go-goer like I am (I’m really not the all-inclusive resort kind of girl,) taking a full rest day on a trip sounds crazy. But as your trips get longer, they become 100% necessary. I was tired. I had been hit by a bike. I could barely walk and my knees were all shades of purple and red and green. For the first time in my life, I found myself in a beautiful place wishing I were back home. Taking a day doing a home activity sated that urge and gave me the strength and mental energy to explore again.

And the number 1 thing I wish I knew before I left?

1. There may come a time that you want to go home. And that’s okay too.
I thought that once I was on the road, I might end up on it forever. I met many cool people who did that- people who started traveling and five, ten years later were still out there, having amazing adventures. Whatever your timeline is, there may come a point where you’re tired and road weary and need a break. That doesn’t mean you can’t go back or that there won’t be a next time. Italy, Fiji, Angkor Wat will still be waiting for you. There will still be Chinese kids to teach English and waves to surf in Costa Rica. But be real with yourself- being real about your needs and desires is what got you on the road to begin with and you need to keep listening to that while you’re out there. Coming home at any point is not a sign of failure.

Remember, the hardest step is that one out your front door. Once you’ve done that, the rest is easy.

Have you gone for a long-term trip yet? Are you dreaming of it? Comment where you’d like to go or have been below!

The Best Place in Paris isn't what you think it is
Why “Shakespeare and Company” is the most important place in all Paris:

Why “Shakespeare and Company” is the most important place in all Paris:

By | | Comments 0 Comment

“They say that when good Americans die they go to Paris,” chuckled Sir Thomas…

“Really! And where do bad Americans go to when they die?” inquired the Duchess.
“They go to America,” murmured Lord Henry.

-Oscar Wilde, The Picture of Dorian Gray

I missed “Shakespeare and Company” the first time I went to Paris.

I thought I had been fairly thorough: I visited the Louvre, the Eiffel Tower, the Arc de Triumph, and Sacre Coeur. I gawked at the bells of Notre Dame, the windows in Saint Chapelle, and basked in the neon glow of the Moulin Rouge. The ten days of my visit, I feasted on endless pain aux raisin with cafe crème in streetside cafes, flailing hopelessly in french, enchanted with endless boulangeries, fromageries, and hordes of chinese tourists. I even got out of town for a day to see Versailles and Marie Antoinette’s “Petit Trianon”.

When I returned home, I recovered from my postpartum blues with a Lost Generation binge of Fitzgerald, Hemingway, and Gertrude Stein. I had been convinced I hated Hemingway’s icy prose and flimsy heroines until he exposed his soft underbelly in “A Moveable Feast”. That was when I first heard of Shakespeare and Co. and marked it down for a future visit.

“Shakespeare and Company” was a bookstore created by American Sylvia Beach on the Left Bank in 1919. Besides selling English language books, Sylvia loaned books to promising young authors. The store quickly became a central point for ex-pat writers like Ezra Pound, Hemingway, James Joyce, and Fitzgerald. When the war came, the shop closed in 1941. Despite Hemingway “personally liberating” the place after the war, it never reopened. In 1951, a friend of Sylvia’s, George Whitman opened his own bookshop called “Le Mistral” modeled after Shakespeare and Co, fulfilling the legacy of the bohemian cultural center. in 1958, Sylvia gave George usage of the name of her beloved shop, which is Shakespeare and Co today.

Since George’s death in 2011, Shakespeare and Company has been run by his daughter, Sylvia Whitman (named after Beach). Upstairs hides several small cots and beds, which are part of the shop’s informal “residency” program. Young artists and writers, “Tumbleweeds”, as they are called, are invited to stay in the shop for free, in return for helping out. An estimated 30,000 aspiring artists have stayed here since 1951

Why Shakespare and Co is the most important place in Paris
Legendary English-language bookshop “Shakespeare and Company” is a haven for aspiring writers

As a lover of books, I am also in love with bookstores, especially the used variety, with crammed-full dusty shelves, or the thoughtful type, full of esoteric titles hand-picked by artsy college students. This was more the latter than the former.

On entry, I was underwhelmed. This place had plenty of books, of course, and a little cafe next door. The downstairs was a madhouse of noisy tourists, wafting in and out, munching vegan coffee cake.

Upstairs it is quieter. Only perhaps 40% of nosy visitors wind their way up the narrow steps. There, one finds a spinnet and scraps of sheet music (always exciting to musicians like me.) There are several pillowed benches which double as cots and a few nooks with typewriters including one surrounded by post-it notes of poetry, pinned to the wall. My husband left me a note there himself and won’t tell me what it says “until next time”.

One typewriter sits alone by a small window, facing Notre Dame in all her glory.

Ignoring my usual haste to hurry in and out, I took a seat, moleskin notebook in hand, sketching the typewriter and jotting down a few lines.

I am an impatient traveler, always racing to explore the next corner, filling my days as if they are numbered, which of course, they are. But a day raced through goes no slower and the number of places visited does not increase their worth. This trip, I had disciplined myself with daily journaling to better remember each day, an attempt to hold more of the sand sifting between my fingers.

And as I sat, the magic began to happen. Like a butterfly, magic will not approach so readily if you are in a rush. But if you sit very still and pay close attention, you may get a glimpse out of the corner of your eye. You see, my husband was with me too, and he took a seat with a likely old tome to peruse as I journaled. And a homeless drunk came upstairs.

This disheveled creature had been wandering for some time, muttering to herself, bumping into selfie shooting tourists (“No pictures, please”), careening through the shelves on a mysterious errand of her own.

When this ivrogne sat next to Brian, muttering half to him, half to herself, I immediately put myself on guard. His french isn’t very good, you see, and I’m always on the alert to remove us from a bad situation. But when he gestured helplessly at her french, she switched to English, and they began a kind of dreamy conversation.

I couldn’t catch all of it, neither, I think, could Brian, as she kept lapsing in and out of her native language, but she spoke of loneliness and he listened, patiently. She asked him his favorite book. Then she spoke of how a novel can capture a place eternally, whether or not it ever really existed at all, and the comfort a book can bring in taking you along with it on a journey to somewhere safe, somewhere far and always comfortable. She spoke of her family, about regret, and alcoholism. With no perceptible change in emotion, she explained how drink will kill you. As she sat on the bench, the bottle in her shopping bag shattered with a melancholy tinkle. She didn’t notice.

As I sat there, I realized what the shop really meant, what it really stood for. Shakespeare and Co. is more than just another English bookstore, a tiny Anglo island in the Parisian sea. It’s more than another historical haunt of famous writers with a tiny placard on the wall, “Hemingway sat here”.

Shakespeare and Company represents the Foreigner’s dream of Paris. Like New York, the Big Apple, the Land of Golden Opportunity to immigrants, Paris has long been the promised land for artists, musicians, and writers, for the melancholy and the mad, the sparkling and the tarnished alike. New York is many things to many people, a gritty, filthy city of chaos and culture, but through the dream of the immigrant we glimpse what New York could be, what New York represents. In Shakespeare and Co., we see Paris as the dream of the foreigner, as it was a haven for the Lost.

Seated at the dusty typewriter, looking out that tiny window over Notre Dame, we too can see the most magical view of Paris: that of the heart.

For more information on “Shakespeare and Company”, their events, and inquiries on their residency programs, visit their website.