Month: November 2016

My Favorite Key West Secret

My Favorite Key West Secret

It’s a rainy, wet, dreary day today, the perfect kind of morning to curl up on the couch with some Earl Grey and Jane Austin or “Seven Years in Tibet“. Or, alternatively, we can cast our minds to beautiful places far away, whether to daydream, plan, or remember. We can visit tropical wonderlands like Key West.

Today I’m going to tell you a secret, a traveler’s secret. You know my favorite kind of secret? When you go somewhere you’ve never been in your whole life and you can still show someone something amazing your first time there, something totally unexpected and marvelous?

This was a something passed on to me and now I can share it with you. But let’s keep it special, shall we?

The island of Key West is at the end of one of the most gorgeous road trips in the whole world. If you’ve never been to a tropical paradise, you may be unprepared for the turquoise blue of the water or the impeccable visibility, falsely attributing it to some kind of Instagram filter. You may be surprised by the colorful birds and fish, the treacherous humidity, the lazily hanging mosses.

Personally, I was most surprised when I ran over a crocodile with my rented bike.

My first trip to Key West was supposed to be a weekend in Maine. It was my birthday and I was excited to return to Acadia National Park… but then rain happened. When my traveling companion glanced at the radar and delivered the bad news, I asked how far the green splotch on the map went – Vermont? Wet. Cincinnati? Soaking. Virginia Beach? Damp, at best. Well, then, where did the giant green splotch end?

“Charleston,” he replied.

“Charleston,” I said, tasting the distant city on my tongue. “So we drive to Charleston,” I said, “and we see how far we get.”

Well, we made it to Charleston in time for a delicious cup of morning coffee and doughnuts, and, with the wanderer’s creed of “just a bit farther” we continued to Savannah, St Augustine, Miami … and Key West. A mere spur-of-the-moment 1,500 miles.

Accommodations:

Miami itself is further from Key West than one might think, 3.5 hours drive without traffic. If there is any traffic, you’re done for, because there is exactly one main road that goes through the islands (route 1, of course). It’s also two hours between the first key (Key Largo) and the final one (Key West) so plan accordingly, especially if you have a flight out of MIA to worry about. Now, for cheaper accommodations, I recommend staying off the final island if possible. Key West is the busiest, most popular, and most expensive of the chain. Do visit but you may not want to stay there. As for options, AirBNB is a good bet and there is at least one hostel in Key West though I have not been there. Many hotels and B&Bs will include bonuses like free fishing pole and tackle, kayaks, and bikes with stay. Drink more water than you think you’ll need, wear bug spray, and beware the heat.

Things not to miss:

Snorkle and scuba dive – If you come to this island paradise with any interest in diving, DON’T MISS IT. If you’ve never been snorkling and you can swim, I highly recommend giving it a try. It’s some of the most exciting diving on the planet. You put your face in the water and it’s like watching National Geographic. For around $40 per person, you can join a diving group for maybe four hours out on the water. It’s fantastic. One other pro tip- don’t forget to reapply your reef-friendly sunscreen every few hours. The water can act like a magnifying lens, frying your back as you paddle merrily along, which you won’t be feeling for several hours (and oh boy, then you’re going to feel it for sure!)

sunburned couple
Look at those sad faces! Don’t be like us- Reapply your sunscreen regularly!

If you’re not hitting the reef and you still need sun care, check out “Sun Bum” sunscreen. It’s in many beach shops there and California and if you don’t mind spending a little extra, you, too, can smell like a very expensive banana (and you’re going to need their cooling lotion if you missed that last tip about reapplying sunscreen!) Overpriced? Almost definitely, but like the scent of “Sex Wax”, it instantly transports me to warm beaches and endless sun, which in February is much cheaper than a ticket to Orlando!

The Hemmingway House is absolutely worth a visit if you’re a book nerd, manly man, or cat fanatic and The Green Parrot exists for those who still need more of a “Papa” fix. My own favorite hobby is walking through town, admiring the stately colonial architecture, and peaking into the lush pocket gardens full of mangroves and tropical flowers. Naturally, you also need to spend time on the beach. Walking (or biking) over Seven-Mile Bridge if you’re hardy enough is unforgettable because visibility allows you to see every fish scooting along the sand beneath you. Chartered water sports in Key west (parasailing, paragliding, boat charters and rentals) are also cheaper than almost anywhere else in the US.

Lastly, a quirky piece of Americana in the restaurant Better than Sex. Like Madame Puddifoot’s in the Harry Potter movies, Better than Sex is designed as a date spot. If you found a hot date on your trip (or imported one with you) bring them here to this dessert-based placed for naughty-themed cocktails and the best chocolate grilled cheese of your life. Now, just because it’s a date place doesn’t mean this can’t just be a giggle-worthy time with a good friend or a very special moment between you and your cheesecake. No one will judge in this candle-lit atmosphere so thick you can barely see your delicious meal. Each time we go, the ambiance gets darker- this last time they gave up entirely and swapped the paper menus for Ipads.

A couple dine at "Better than Sex"
“Melanie? You look lovely by iPad light.”
(“Better than Sex” image courtesy “The Daily City”)

Eat some conch fritters and key lime pie, have a good margarita, listen to live music, do some water sports, check out the crazy sunset parties on the beach, and…

Oh, did you think I forgot the secret I said I’d tell you?

Here it is: when you get to Key West itself, Duval street is the main area and “party town”. There are all kinds of art galleries and tchotchke stores on Duval. There is also a Starbucks.

Near sunset time, go into this Starbucks, sneak out the back door into the Hotel, and go straight into the elevator on the other side. Head to the top floor. Stay sneaky. Hum “Mission Impossible” if that helps.

Wah-la. You are in one of the best and highest places in town to grab a drink and watch the sunset over the whole city. They frequently have live bands playing and they fix a mean cocktail.

Have you been to Key West lately? Did I miss anything important? What’s the farthest you’ve gone on a spontaneous road trip? Tell me in the comments.

a beautiful beach sunset with palm trees
Really is just another day in paradise. So why not head to the Keys? If you’re American, you don’t even need a passport. Photo credit: bmward_2000.
How to find great food when traveling

How to find great food when traveling

If you’re like me, food is one of the best parts about traveling.

Whether you’re trying something new or just hunting down the best fresh, local ingredients, good food can give you an insight into new cultures and make you feel far from home in a good way.

Picking a good place when you’re away can put the pressure on- you’re only around a limited time with a limited budget and a bad meal can sour your day. Even worse, getting caught in a “tourist trap” can give you subpar food at high prices.

If you don’t know anyone in town and you don’t know the area, how do you find a good place?

Fear not for I am a broke foodie and have made finding good food away from home an art form! Here are my secrets:

amazing pinxos great food
Food in Spain is super cheap and delicious. Check out these pinxos- they were about $1 each!

1) Walk around:

This is my most important tip. Don’t leave finding a place to the last minute when possible– hanger can make for bad decision-making. Instead, keep meals in the back of your mind as you explore. You’re going to have to eat some time, right? If you see a good-looking place, glance at the menu and start getting a feel for typical prices and food in the area. This will help you not get ripped off. Definitely take a look at what people are ordering as well- if it makes you drool, what you order will probably be good too. Don’t be afraid to follow your nose!

2) Use Yelp:

Most restaurants are clustered in certain areas. Maybe you already have a feel for the busy places from exploring, but if not, use yelp or other review sites (when possible) to find where the food is. Definitely look at reviews if there are any, but don’t just go by stars- check and read some of the bad reviews too. Make sure none of the mentioned issues are ones you’re not willing to deal with.

3) Never feel like you have to eat at a place before you see the menu

Sticker shock hurts! Often menus are posted outside or you can ask a waiter to see one. If you sit, are handed a menu, and the prices or offerings are not what you want, head out and find a better place. You may not be in town again, right? Don’t be guilted into a bad meal or one outside of your budget.

4) Location location location:

Often restaurants right next to a famous area or monument (I’m looking at you, the Latin Quarter) are awful. They’re designed for travelers who don’t know any better. Even the better restaurants in touristy areas may be overpriced. Don’t be afraid to go down the side alleys for a better deal and better time.

5) Do what the locals do:

Talk to people in your hostel or leaders of your walking tours about where they like to eat most (phrasing it like that will hopefully avoid steering you to generic tourist options). For the most part avoid chains. When possible, beware places with menus in several languages, especially those that only list the most twee dishes of the area like “fondue” and “cassoulet” or “authentic paella“. Beware the word “authentic” at all cost! How does the menu look? Is it updated day-to-day with seasonal ingredients or does it look like a diner menu full of clip-art that hasn’t changed since 1998? Don’t underestimate local options like food carts and markets- if a food spot is busy and full of locals, it’s probably a great place and even cheap places can have incredible food.

When choosing a place to eat, any and all of these rules can be broken. Sometimes a tourist location is located so well or is so beautiful, it’s worth the risk. Sometimes there’s a very specific deal or menu item you want to try or you don’t have many options to choose from. Don’t forget that a bad meal isn’t the end of the world!

My final recommendation is that we all could stand to broaden our palettes and eat more local food. Food from home is likely to be more expensive and not as good. Besides, did you really come half-way around the world to eat a crappy hamburger at McDonald’s? Before you choose your next meal, remember that food is an intrisic part of a place’s culture. As a traveler, an adventurer, an explorer, we should celebrate that.

How about you, what was your best food find on the road? What was your worst food disaster? Tell me in the comments!

-M